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Rhine Dining
By Patricia McMorrow
Any certified German will say the best sauerbraten and blaukraut comes from grandma's kitchen. That's true, of course, but if you're ever in the neighborhood, stop by any of these places. Even Grossmutter would approve of the hackbraten. (That's "grandmother" and "meatloaf" to you.)
Lyons, Colorado
Andrea's German Cuisine
It's highly likely Andrea Liermann herself will seat you in the cozy dining room and suggest you order Thuringian potato dumplings and savory red cabbage. She makes her own pastry for apple strudel, too. It's well worth a driveabout 20 minutes from Boulder. 216 E. Main St., Lyons, CO, (303) 823-5000.
New York City
Roettele A.G.
Wiener schnitzel is the house specialty, and the Alpine murals and luscious garden make you feel far away from the East Village. 126 E Seventh St., New York, NY, (212) 674-4140.
Milwaukee
Karl Ratzch's
The most celebrated German restaurant in a celebrated German town. Karl's Wiener Schnitzel à la Holstein comes with a fried egg and anchovy. Go anyway, even if you hate anchovies. 320 E. Mason St., Milwaukee, WI, (414) 276-2720.
Leavenworth, Washington
Lorraine's Edel Hau
"Quaint" is the operative word in this outside-Seattle tourist burg. But Lorraine'sopen only for dinner during the week and lunch on weekendswill seem like a hideaway from Leavenworth's overwhelming oom-pah-pah vibe. 320 Ninth St., Leavenworth, Wash., (509) 548-4412.
Houston
Old Heidelberg
Owner Annemarie Buett goes for hearty German foodrouladen, sauerbraten, sausage platters. Want to bet you can't count all the beer steins decorating the place in a single visit? 1810 Fountainview Drive, Houston, TX, (713) 781-3581.
San Francisco
Schroeder's
Old-timers say neither the menu nor the décor ever change in this Financial District hangout, open since 1893. The servers, too, have been around for many moons, and they do things their way. Don't leave without trying the apple strudel. 240 Front St., San Francisco, CA, (415) 421-4778.
For more on discovering your German roots, see the April 2000 issue of Family Tree Magazine.
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